Far above the numerous Hindu pilgrims wandering the grounds of the Maha Kumbh Mela, Prime Minister Narendra Modi of India smiles down from massive billboards and posters stretching as far as the eye can see. In other areas, there are life-sized cutouts of the leader, glowing brightly at night, with folded hands in greeting. The Maha Kumbh, a spiritual festival known as the largest gathering of humanity, is being held this year in the city of Prayagraj, where the Ganges and Yamuna Rivers converge. Hindus believe in a third mythical river called the Saraswati joining them at this point. Crowds of devotees immerse themselves in the holy waters in the belief that it will cleanse them of sins and bring salvation. It is a captivating sight, with ash-covered monks, naked ascetics, priests with vermilion paste on their foreheads, ordinary pilgrims, tourists with selfie sticks, mesmerized foreigners, performers, small vendors, and big advertisers. It is also an impressive display of urban planning, with an overnight megalopolis constructed on borrowed land from the receding Ganges in the state of Uttar Pradesh, complete with tents, toilets, roads, streetlights, and even automated ticket vending machines. For Mr. Modi and his close ally Yogi Adityanath, the hardline Hindu monk who serves as the chief minister of Uttar Pradesh, the Maha Kumbh offers a unique marketing opportunity. It serves as a platform to showcase India’s achievements, and by extension, their own, to a captivated citizenry and a global audience. The political significance of the event was evident last week when a stampede resulted in 30 pilgrims losing their lives and 90 others being injured. Mr. Adityanath seemed to downplay the incident, taking nearly 15 hours to acknowledge the deaths and provide a death toll. Mr. Modi expressed sorrow and offered assistance but maintained a distance from the tragic news. For him, the Kumbh is a crucial chance to present himself as the man who will lead India towards becoming a well-governed, efficient, tech-savvy, and business-friendly powerhouse. A positive portrayal of the festival also aids Mr. Modi, a Hindu nationalist, in fulfilling his right-wing base’s desire to celebrate a glorious Hindu cultural and religious heritage. Mr. Modi is expected to take a sacred dip at the Maha Kumbh on Wednesday, the same day as regional elections in New Delhi. The media attention on him that day will spill over to his Bharatiya Janata Party as they contest the election. Mr. Adityanath has also been active in leveraging the spiritual event for political gain. Last month, he convened a special cabinet meeting for state ministers in Prayagraj, where they announced infrastructure projects and bathed at the confluence of the rivers, further blurring the lines between religion and state. Following the stampede, Mr. Adityanath sought to spin the disaster as highlighting the effectiveness of the Maha Kumbh’s rescue operations. The Kumbh Mela and other ritual bathing events have been part of Indian traditions for centuries. Hindu mythology suggests that when gods and demons fought over a pitcher of the nectar of immortality, drops were spilled in four places, each of which hosts a Kumbh Mela every 12 years. While the festivals were traditionally overseen by Hindu monks, governments have played a role in ensuring their orderly and safe conduct. Over the years, the Kumbh Melas have grown in size, attracting millions of pilgrims due to improved infrastructure and facilities. This year’s Maha Kumbh has received significant funding from the central and state governments, as it coincides with a rare celestial alignment not seen in 144 years. The government’s involvement is crucial due to the magnitude of the pilgrimage, but people are drawn to the Mela not because of government promotion but for spiritual reasons. Mr. Adityanath has made efforts to promote this year’s festival as a tourist attraction, offering Kumbh “experience” packages, luxury tents, and inviting celebrity guests. Some attendees feel that his focus on P.R. has detracted from the festival’s essence. The stampede also led to criticism from opposition parties, who accused Mr. Adityanath of prioritizing wealthy and influential guests over the safety and arrangements for ordinary pilgrims. Amanda Lucia, a professor at the University of California-Riverside who has attended the Kumbh Mela multiple times, noted the increased promotion of the event since Mr. Modi came to power in 2014. The overtly political moves to upgrade the Kumbh Mela have been seen as attempts to gain support for political campaigns, leading some to call it the “government Kumbh” and questioning its authenticity. This year’s Kumbh has been heavily marketed as a cultural and developmental showcase, emphasizing revenue generation and technological advancements. The government of Mr. Adityanath has impressed devotees with gestures like showering rose petals from helicopters and highlighting infrastructure investments. Digital technology has been leveraged to enhance the experience, with QR codes providing access to various services and facilities. Advanced technology powered by artificial intelligence is being used to monitor and manage crowds, although it was unable to prevent the recent stampede. Despite the political and organizational aspects of the Maha Kumbh Mela, for many pilgrims, the experience is a deeply personal and spiritual one. Dharmendra Dubey, a 28-year-old bank employee, felt reinvigorated after taking a dip in the cold waters of the confluence of the rivers, despite the long journey to get there. The energy and sense of renewal he experienced transcended any physical tiredness, leaving him feeling rejuvenated and spiritually uplifted.
