In Marottichal, India, a teahouse is filled with phones, wallets, and half-drunk teacups, with one exception – an empty table where a crowd gathers around a chess board. 15-year-old Gowrishankar Jayaraj is competing blindfolded, visualizing and updating a mental model of the game as moves are called out by a referee. He is facing off against an older player named Baby John, who is on the brink of losing his fourth game in nearly 40 minutes. Marottichal, a village in Kerala, is known as the “Chess Village of India” due to its high number of proficient chess players. Jayaraj, aiming to become a grandmaster, is part of India’s growing success in the sport. The village’s transformation from alcoholism and gambling crisis to a chess-loving community is credited to local resident Charaliyil Unnikrishnan, who used chess to bring people together and combat addiction. Chess has had a profound impact on the village, with many residents finding new focus and purpose through the game. The village has even received recognition for having the most amateur chess players playing concurrently in Asia. Chess has not only transformed the village but has also helped individuals like Jayem Vallur recover from personal struggles, showing the power of the game beyond just entertainment.
